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Vintage California
Food & Wine
Food & Wine
by George Edwards
That’s right, Chenin Blanc don’t get no respect! Chenin’s near
disappearance from the wine scene has no doubt been expedited
by the reality that the money is in more fashionable white varietals. Too bad, I’ve always liked the pleasing, unassuming nature and food versatility of the grape, whether on its own or contributing to a creative blend. I may be dating myself (and
you too if this sounds familiar) when I recall the popularity of Wente Le Blanc de Blanc and Charles Krug Chenin Blanc; at one time they were standards on most wine lists. In fact, it was the groundbreaking cold fermentation
technique that the Mondavi’s (Robert
and Peter) developed at Krug to capture
and accent the floral character of Chenin that allowed Robert Mondavi to transform the austere Sauvignon Blanc of the day into the appealing Fume style that became the signature white of his eponymous winery.
Some producers choose to render the wine in a Chardonnay-ish mode by fermenting and/or aging in oak but it is the unencumbered interpretations
that deliver such quaffing pleasure and expand the food pairing possibilities;
indeed, the latter context just might be the wine’s entrée back into the main stream (one can only hope).
Appellation or grape source can be a significant factor in determining the quality and personality of any wine type and I think most would agree that Clarksburg in California’s Delta region is the epicenter for top notch Chenin Blanc. A prime example is the Dry Creek Vineyards Dry version which displays two of this varietal’s other most prized assets, moderate alcohol (12.5 per cent) and modest pricing ($13 ). The current 2006 vintage has quite a diverse pairing resume which includes roast and honey glazed turkey
disappearance from the wine scene has no doubt been expedited
by the reality that the money is in more fashionable white varietals. Too bad, I’ve always liked the pleasing, unassuming nature and food versatility of the grape, whether on its own or contributing to a creative blend. I may be dating myself (and
you too if this sounds familiar) when I recall the popularity of Wente Le Blanc de Blanc and Charles Krug Chenin Blanc; at one time they were standards on most wine lists. In fact, it was the groundbreaking cold fermentation
technique that the Mondavi’s (Robert
and Peter) developed at Krug to capture
and accent the floral character of Chenin that allowed Robert Mondavi to transform the austere Sauvignon Blanc of the day into the appealing Fume style that became the signature white of his eponymous winery.
Some producers choose to render the wine in a Chardonnay-ish mode by fermenting and/or aging in oak but it is the unencumbered interpretations
that deliver such quaffing pleasure and expand the food pairing possibilities;
indeed, the latter context just might be the wine’s entrée back into the main stream (one can only hope).
Appellation or grape source can be a significant factor in determining the quality and personality of any wine type and I think most would agree that Clarksburg in California’s Delta region is the epicenter for top notch Chenin Blanc. A prime example is the Dry Creek Vineyards Dry version which displays two of this varietal’s other most prized assets, moderate alcohol (12.5 per cent) and modest pricing ($13 ). The current 2006 vintage has quite a diverse pairing resume which includes roast and honey glazed turkey
Clarksburg Chenin comprises eighty plus per cent of the $14 Pine Ridge Chenin Blanc - Viognier (also Clarksburg fruit) which is one of the most food friendly whites in my experience. I’m talking salmon, sandabs, shellfish, pork, poultry; you name it, and 12.6 per cent alcohol to boot. The grape also shares center stage with Muscat Canelliand Chardonnay in the pork, Mexican, and fin fish friendly Folie a Deux Menage a Trois Blanc ($11). Kiona Vineyards ($10) from Washington exemplifies a more traditional off-dry style that added to the enjoyment of tri-tip, salmon, and pork. And not to be missed are the dry, well priced Chenin Blancs from S. Africa which tend to slightly higher alcohols and explosive fruit.
Two favorites are the Man ($11) and Simonsig ($12 ). Talk about food friendly, the former has paired up nicely with Chicken Satay with spicy peanut sauce, barbecued filet and much room sauce, Jamaican flank steak, cold steamed salmon, and Korean marinated
Farm Fresh Food
Be A Locavore in California!
Be A Locavore in California!
by Judi Gerber
California Family Farms
farmwriter@californiafamilyfarms.com
www.lafarmgirl.blogspot.com
Most people may not be aware that the New Oxford American Dictionary selected “locavore” as its 2007 Word of the Year. As Oxford points out, “a locavore is somebody who uses locally grown ingredients, taking advantage of seasonally available food stuffs that can be bought and prepared without the need for extra preservatives.” Locavore was coined two years ago by four San Francisco women who proposed that local residents should try to eat only food grown or produced within a 100-mile radius. Since then, other groups have adopted the same motto and the “movement” has spread.
The “Buy Local” movement encourages people to buy from farmers’ markets or local farms, or to grow their own food because they believe that fresh, local products taste better and are more nutritious. It’s also seen as a powerful weapon in the fight against global warming because locally produced food saves on transportation and energy by reducing the need to use non-renewable fossil fuel. Eating locally is also a way to help the local economy and to support family farmers.
Eating locally in California, eating farm fresh in fact, is easy for most people because California produces over one half of the nation’s fresh fruits and vegetables and no matter where in the state you find yourself, there are plenty of fresh local choices. For example, many communities have set up farm trail systems complete with farm trail maps that allow visitors to buy directly from the farm. The state now has nearly 30 organized farm trails to make things easier for travelers and locals alike, with trails from San Diego in the south up to the Gold Country. Another great resource for finding local foods is the Community Alliance with Family Farmers’ (CAFF) “Buy Fresh Buy Local” website. Its also perfect for residents and visitors in any California community because you simply enter your zip code or county and get a list of local farms, farmers’ markets, nurseries, grocery stores, restaurants and bakeries.
Local Harvest, a site similar to CAFF’s is perfect for those traveling within California and nation-wide since it allows visitors to search any zip code or county in the United States. One of the most popular, and easiest ways to eat locally is to shop at a local certified farmers’ market. There are certified markets in over 500 California communities. A “certified” farmers’ market means that only “real” farmers can sell their produce directly to the consumer and are certified by the local county that they are only selling the products that they have actually grown themselves.
The trend in eating local has also spread to many popular restaurants including Berkeley’s famed Chez Panisse, owned by world-renowned chef Alice Water. Its menu has featured local ingredients since it first opened in 1971 and has set the trend for those that have followed.
Organized Farm Trails
UC Davis Agritourism Database www.calagtour.org
Farms of Amador County http://groups.ucanr.org/farmsofamador
(209) 223-6482
Calaveras Grown, www.calaverasgrown.org, (209) 754-6477
Apple Hill Growers Association, www.applehill.com, (530) 644-7692
El Dorado County Farm Trails, www.edc-farmtrails.org, (530) 676-4263
Napa Yolano Harvest Trails, www.napayolanoharvesttrails.org, (530) 644-7692
PlacerGROWN, Placer County, www.placergrown.org, (530) 889-7398
49er Fruit Trail www.sacramentogardening.com/49erFruitTrails.html"
www.sacramentogardening.com/49erFruitTrails.html, (530) 878-1047
Sonoma County Farm Trails, www.farmtrails.org, (707) 571-8288
Harvest Time in Brentwood, www.harvest4you.com, and (925) 634-4913
Country Crossroads, Santa Cruz & Santa Clara Counties, (no website) call (831) 724-1356
Central Coast Ag Adventures, HYPERLINK "http://www.agadventures.org" www.agadventures.org, (805) 772-5623
Central Valley Harvest Trails (Stanislaus County), www.spendtheday.org, (209) 522-7278
California Farmers’ Markets
California Federation of Certified Farmers’ Markets, www.cafarmersmarkets.com
Buy Local Resources
California Alliance For Family Farmers Buy Fresh Buy Local, http://guide.buylocalca.org
Local Harvest, www.localharvest.org
Restaurants Featuring Local Foods
Chez Panisse, www.chezpanisse.com
Acme Chophouse, www.acmechophouse.com
Hog Island Oyster Bar, www.hogislandoysters.com/v2
Mixt Greens, www.mixtgreens.com
Axe, www.axerestaurant.com
Tender Greens, www.tendergreensfood.com
Wilshire, www.wilshirerestaurant.com
Judi Gerber, a featured California Tour & Travel Magazine Columnist is an agriculture and garden writer from Torrance California, and the author of the new book Farming in Torrance and the South Bay by Arcadia Publishing. Write to her at:
farmwriter@californiafamilyfarms.com
www.lafarmgirl.blogspot.com
pork. The Simonsig's credentials
include scampi, chile verde, and lamb; the ’07 is among the best I’ve
tasted. I could go on and on but you get the idea i.e., don’t miss the
simple pleasures of this oft overlooked varietal. Indeed, the floral
brightness of soon to be
Spring just might be the perfect opportunity to renew the acquaintance.
Integrate it into your lifestyle thereby giving a wine identity. The obvious first step is to taste and compare to experience the possibilities, and learn where your tastes lie. If you incorporate wine into your meals, you increase and expand the learning opportunities; it isn’t just wine anymore. In the beginning try as many different wines as opportunity allows; variety is, indeed, the spice of life. Get guidance from a knowledgeable retailer and friends in the know. The latter can be a double edge sword as friends may provide valuable information and help shape what will someday be your own take on wine (our goal here) but, unfortunately, the wine savvy have often already painted themselves into a color or varietal or regional corner such as “I only drink red” and you are at risk of being equally trapped from the get-go. It’s like saying “I only listen to Beethoven” or more accurately, Beethoven’s Fifth, or even more accurately the first movement. Now, if that’s where you arrive so be it, but make that decision based on your own experience. One fun mechanism for sharing and communicating and learning is a small tasting group (maximum eight to ten = one bottle) that meets, say, once a month. To be more productive I would suggest having a wine professional, a retailer, someone comfortable with wine help design each session so that you absorb everything you can without spoiling the fun part; not too serious but informative. Tasting and talking should, nay must, be augmented by exploring the literature to expand your background and discover new areas of interest. For starters select a reference book you can consult as needed and my recommendation is The Wine Bible by Karen MacNeil; well written, chock full of info, and an easy read. In fact, I would start by reading it cover to cover to establish a solid foundation for the journey to follow. And to keep up on current events consult periodical wine publications and articles. One pitfall of most wine publications is a scoring system that rates wines by points. I strongly suggest you ignore this form of vinous incarceration and read the accompanying comments which should give you a much clearer vision of the wine’s personality; in short, peruse the Buying Guide and focus on the articles since it is quite possible that the 88 point wine may serve your price and stylistic needs better than that 95 pointer. The most widely read consumer oriented wine magazines include Wine Spectator, Wine Enthusiast, and Wine & Spirits. Newspapers usually have a wine column or section on particular days; the San Francisco Chronicle has a wine section on Fridays (I think). The point of all this is to be exposed to as many perspectives as possible to facilitate the development of your own; and to have fun along the way. Oh yes, and be patient, it takes time.
George Edwards is a full time wine specialist, shop owner in Pacific Grove, California
Visit him at WineMarket
192 Country Club Gate Ctr, Pacific Grove, CA 93950-5022
831-646-0107
HOW TO EXPAND YOUR WINE KNOWLEDGE
by George Edwards
George Edwards is a full time wine specialist, shop owner in Pacific Grove, California
Visit him at WineMarket
192 Country Club Gate Ctr, Pacific Grove, CA 93950-5022
831-646-0107
Food & Wine
California Cuisine 
by Chef Bruce Biron
Exec. Chef Stanford University
Exec. Chef Stanford University
How do chefs equate with local growers? I believe we are guardians of the culinary art, cultivation and education of food. People seek our opinions of what to eat. On a recent trip through the Sierra Foothills, I found varieties of locally grown apples, pears, citrus and wine grapes astonishing. Following a remote drive through charming historic gold rush towns, I parked alongside the quaint rustic main street in Mokelumne Hill.
Driving down sloped hills and quaint neighborhoods in Mokelumne Hill was well worth the lengthy drive. Tree ripened tangerines were a gift from a local resident, and since this was my birthday, I decided to give myself the gift of coming up with a healthy and delicious new recipe.
Tangerine flavor can be assertive with pleasant acidity, and the juice lends its assertive flavor in cocktails, and compliments seafood. The name tangerine originates from Tangier, Morocco, the port from which the first tangerines shipped to Europe. They are a source of vitamin C, folate, beta-carotene, potassium, magnesium and vitamins B1, B2 and B3. Okay, enough about facts and history lets jump into my new recipe, Tangerine Pacific Halibut with toasted pistachio. This dish pairs well with saffron cous cous and organic arugula with mustard vinaigrette and grilled locally grown asparagus.
Tangerine Pacific Halibut with Toasted Pistachio
Description: This dish is typical of California cuisine and pairs nicely with saffron Cous Cous. Since I created this recipe in late January, locally grown asparagus is around the corner and will enhance this meal. Serves: 6
Ingredients:
Standard Halibut
boneless fillets 2 1/2 lb
Pepper, ground 1 tsp
Kosher or sea salt 1 tsp
Corn flour 4 tbsp
Olive oil 2 tbsp
Butter, clarified 1 tbsp
Tangerines, zested, juiced 3 ea
White wine 1/3 cup
Capers 2 tbsp
Parsley, finely chopped 1/3 cup
Pistachios, finely chopped 1 cup
Methods
1/ Cut halibut into six servings and season with salt and pepper. Dredge halibut filets in the corn flous, shaking off any excess flour.
2/ In a hot skillet over medium heat, toast the pistachio nuts, stirring often for 4 minutes. Remove nuts from pan and reserve. Next, heat the oil and butter in the skillet over medium high heat. Carefully, place the halibut filets into the pan and cook for 2-3 minutes, browning the filets, then repeat the process on other side.
3/ Remove filets and reserve. Pour off any excess oil from pan. On medium heat, add wine to the skillet and simmer for 2 minutes. Next, add the tangerine juice, zest and capers and then simmer for an additional 2 minutes.
4/ Place halibut onto a serving platter and pour citrus sauce over all. Garnish dish with parsley and toasted pistachios and serve.
Endangered Heirloom Beans passed down
through the generations…
through the generations…
by Chef Bruce Biron
Growing up in New England, I was raised on Boston Baked Beans, over the years I discovered a world of beans to cook with: black, lima, cranberry, kidney, garbanzo, and especially runner cannelloni beans due to their nutty flavor. With fall upon us, my home will be filled with aromas of pan roasted bean ragout served with grilled fish and corn bread, my favorite comfort foods.
Heirloom beans have incredible flavor, they come from seeds passed down from generation to generation without genetic modification, in a variety of beautiful colors, and sizes. Considered a Super Food, beans are high in protein, fiber, vitamins and minerals, and are low fat. Meaty tasting beans cooked with mushrooms, herbs and vegetables create a healthy and hearty meal.
I’ve learned more about beans as a result of my Slow Food interest. A decade ago, Slow Food International began in Italy with 62 members. There are now 100,000 members world wide. Slow Food is a fast growing global movement of chefs, restaurateurs, farmers, etc. across the globe, envisioning a food system of high quality, sustainable system to improve the pleasure of tasty food, and a slower and more harmonious family lifestyle. It is, of course, the opposite of fast food.
Anyone can embrace the movement by purchasing organic produce from farmers located off the beaten track. Many places, like Sonoma and Santa Cruz counties have well publicized farm trails open to the public at certain times of the year. And, Organic Farmer’s Markets, featuring certified organic fruits and vegetables can now be found in almost every city and town in California.
Harvest Vegetable & Heirloom Bean Ragout
Servings: 6
1 /2 C Cranberry Beans
1 /2 C Cannellini Beans
1 /2 C Lima Beans
1/ 2 C Kidney Beans6 C Broth
2 Tbsps Olive Oil
1/2 C Onions, diced small
1/2 C Bell Pepper, diced small
2 Tbsps Garlic, finely chopped
4 Lg Roma Tomatoes, diced 1/2”
1 Sm Japanese Eggplant, diced 1/2”
1 Sm Yellow Squash, diced 1/2”
1 Sm Zucchini, diced 1/2”
1 Bunch Basil, chopped
1/4 C Parsley, chopped fine
1/4 C Romano Cheese, finely grated
To Taste Salt
To Taste Ground Pepper
Preparation Time: 30 minutes
Cooking Time: 6 hours
1. Sort and rinse beans, then cover with 3 cups of water. Bring to a boil briskly for 3 minutes. Remove from heat, cover and set aside for 4 hours.
2. Discard the soaking water and add fresh water or broth to cover beans 2 inches above surface of beans. Bring to a boil and then reduce to a simmer, skimming off any foam that may appear. Partially cover and simmer until beans are tender. Set aside for ragout.
3. Meanwhile, add olive oil to preheated skillet. Add onions, bell pepper and garlic. Cook over medium-high heat, stirring constantly, until softened and lightly browned.
4. Add roma tomatoes, eggplant, yellow and zucchini squash and cook on low heat for 20 minutes.
5. Add basil, parsley, salt, pepper, romano cheese and cooked beans to ragout.
Serve with grilled fish and baked corn bread. Delicious comfort food and a heart warming dish for the Fall.
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ART, ENTERTAINMENT, AUTO, HEALTH & LIFESTYLE and more…
California Tour & Travel Magazine Home • California Visitor Centers
Latest Events & Festivals by Chris Walker • Arts & Entertainment • Feature Story • CA Star Attractions • Whale Watching
Coast Lodging • High Sierra & Parks • Wineries • Vintage California • Noteworthy… California Book Reviews • San Francisco
San Diego • Santa Barbara • Orange County • Monterey • L.A. Cool Places • West L.A. • Hollywood • L.A. Star Attractions
L.A. Getaways • Yosemite National Park • 49er Gold Rush Highway • Tour & Travel Destinations • Tour & Travel Survey
California Native Cuture • Advertising & Marketing • California Photo Album • Contact /Request • California Marketplace
Hillcrest Country Inn, Calistoga, CA • Romantic Getaways
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