Healdsburg Wine Country
A Beautiful State of Mind & Time
by Leslie Gainer
Just like the bittersweet chocolate that touches all senses and coalesces when paired with a seasoned and spicy red wine - our arrival in Healdsburg was fortuitous, and touched us deeply a more so than imaginable when we first embarked on our journey here. We were in part, that August day - paying tribute to the land of Toad Hollow and the world that the luminous vintners Rodney Strong and Todd Williams had recently left for vineyards in the sky.
We had also come in the spirit of adventure, and reverence. Healdsburg is a gutsy and increasingly glamorous town and wine region. Multi-generation families of farmers, grape growers, and winemakers do their work and live the art of it here - quietly and discreetly.
Meanwhile, the 21st Century genre of “gentrification” is apparent downtown, and at some of the outlying wineries. The result is a mostly complementary mix of old and nouveau businesses and residents. Although that issue is quietly debated amongst those interested in engaging in friendly discussions of the past, present, and future.
We arrived with this impression and growing perspective, as we walked the town, and traveled the vineyards, constantly meeting locals who shared heart to heart with us. The days were both soulful and vibrant - filled with people, places and things to see, touch, taste, and feel.
Hotel Healdsburg (“HH”) became our first home base. An endless flow of adjectives encapsulate our experience there: warm, neighborly, genuine, relaxed sophistication, knock out decor, fabulous pool and lounging areas) became our first home base. An endless flow of adjectives encapsulate our experience there: warm, neighborly, genuine, relaxed sophistication, knock out decor, fabulous pool and lounging areas “HH” hats on head, we hit the road with the convertible top down and our own little soundtrack on the car stereo.
Murphy Goode beckoned us and there we discovered a Petit Verdot that made us kiss the soil it was grown in. It was August, and we had hoped to travel to France in September to visit the home of Petit Verdot. Due to some new circumstances, that dream might have to be delayed. No worries, we had found Petit Verdot’s second home.
Our spirits then guided us to Michel
~Schlumberger Wines in Wine Creek Canyon, a tucked away region in Dry Creek Valley, which is surprisingly slightly Mediterranean. We arrived at a Mission style courtyard, with a captivating pond the dimensions of a lap pool, and a beautiful sparkler like fountain in the center. So soothing on an increasingly hot day. Inside, we were invited into a cool and comfortably set butcher-block table for wine & cheese pairings. It’s so intimate - like being in Jacques Pepin’s kitchen. What follows is a captivating tasting of estate wines, and regional artisan cheeses. Bliss is just the beginning of describing the experience. A guided walk through the organic vineyards is an ideal way of communing with this very special place. Call ahead to reserve your visit. They’re very flexible and accommodating.
We reluctantly said farewell, until the next time. It was time to “walk the red carpet” at the Sonoma villa of our icon: Francis Ford Coppola. The setting of his “Unnamed Cafe” feels like being at the Cipriani in Torcello or Giudecca, Italy. The cuisine is equally transcendent. The Bellini’s extend a friendly rivalry to Harry’s Bar in Venice. Fascinating and lively conversations flowed with the Coppola staff. The tasting room feels like Francis Ford Coppola’s work studio. It’s filled with interesting creative objects that are highly useful and great mementos. All that, and an academy award caliber Director’s Cut Zinfandel. Francis a grazie!
We were feeling a bit theatrical at that point a and had visions of replicating the scenes of “I Love Lucy,” stomping newly harvested grapes with joyful abandon, or a “Walk in the Clouds” with Keanu Reeves. Our fantasies were rewarded when we learned about harvest events all around us at: Dry Creek Vineyard (fun, fun, fun!); Ravenswood (“Wine Making 101”); White Oak (wine blending sessions); (grape stomping!), and if all that is not enough a we could go to Sonoma County Grape Camp. A quick Google of www.wineroad.com or www.wdcv.com gave us details.
We were becoming at one with the landscape and the people of this wonderful place. It seemed only logical to head to “Locals a Ten Artisan Wineries a One Room.” Here, you taste the wines by flight. All of the wines of each winery organized to taste by varietals a so for example 5 Syrah’s from 5 different local winemakers.Wine tasting heaven - on earth.
The next visit on our tasting tour was at Lynmar. The organic gardens are beautiful in their abundance and nurturing qualities. All of the cuisine is conceptualized and prepared on site. The appetizer pairings with their estate wines and gracious hospitality provides the perfect primer for the dining experiences in the evenings ahead.
The grand finale for the day was an exquisite experience at Jordan Vineyard and Winery that is like stepping into Bordeaux, both in style of wine, and atmosphere. A progressive tasting includes the pairing of a different wine and artisan cheese, in three separate scenic locations at the vineyards and winery.
How appropriate, that the Les Mars Hotel was our home for the evening. The atmosphere is 17th and 18th Century French Affluence. The staff attentive, the furnishings are impeccable. It is also the locale of the acclaimed Cyrus restaurant, where the cuisine of the chef is residence has been enthusiastically compared to The world renowned French Laundry located in neighboring Napa Valley.
For a more casual evening out, step into the Healdsburg Square, and explore the tasting rooms and restaurants within a 4-6-block perimeter. At Williamson Wines, the Dry Creek Outback owners meet city living for a fabulous experience in food & wine pairing.
By early evening, it’s time for more than liquid calories. The restaurant selections are abundant. Will it be an evening with: Bistro Ralph or Barn Diva? Do we feel like: Zin or Ravenous? How about dinner and jazz at Palette Art Cafe, or al fresco at Oakville Grocery? So many questions and options. When you go, take your time+fortify yourself for the next day ahead. Remember to start up your tasting engine the next morning with deliciously intense mug of Flying Goat Coffee. Cheers!